Roman Holiday


A guest blog from my sister
Rome: eternal city, and one of my favourite places in the world. Full of bustling piazzas, twisting back streets, extraordinary ancient landmarks and architecture and, of course, countless restaurants serving wonderful Italian food. So when I told my sis I was going to Rome for a few days, I promised to throw in a guest food blog.

I’ve visited the city a couple of times before, but this is the first time I have been there in May. At this time of year the weather is perfect - warm but, like the best English Midsummer Day, tempered by a cool breeze; the roses are in full bloom and the heady smell of jasmine fills the air. And, of course, it’s a great time to taste some fantastic seasonal produce.

Rome isn’t necessarily the first city you think of when it comes to gastronomic greatness (the local penchant for offal leaves something to be desired) but Romans, like the rest of their countrymen, know the meaning of good food.



The selection of food on sale in the markets is fascinating to an outsider, with an embarrassment of riches on show. I visited just a couple during my long weekend - one the local San Giovanni di Dio market in Monteverde, up on a hill above Trastevere, and the other in the more touristy Campo dei Fiori in the Centro Storico. In both, stalls were piled high with fruit and veg of every possible description: mountains of carciofini (artichokes), some exotic looking and rather expensive wine-red and white-striped tardivo - a type of radicchio, bags of pasta in every shape and size and, in Campo dei Fiori, a weird and wonderful collection of what looked like gourds, though I didn’t have a chance to find out as I avoided being cornered by the stallholder…


As on previous visits, there are certain dishes I like to enjoy when in Rome. In no particular order, these include: courgette, or zucchini, flowers stuffed with mozzarella or ricotta; gelato (many varieties); great coffee (although, I’m afraid, it’s a watered down americano rather than espresso for me); arancini (originating in Sicily, these little fried rice balls are flavoured with a meat or vegetable sauce) and last, but by no means least, my favourite - a classic Roman dish: Bucatini all’Amatriciana.

For me, with my very savoury tooth, this pasta dish - with its combination of salty pork, sweet, thick tomato sauce clinging to the pasta and its chilli heat - is heavenly. Over the years I have often been ridiculed by my family for always throwing bacon and tomato into every pasta sauce, so it comes as no great surprise to my sister that this is the dish I choose to blog about.
The Amatriciana sauce is a speciality of the Lazio region, in which Rome is situated, particularly the town of Amatrice, after which it is named. It is a simple combination of flavours and uses guanciale - air-dried pork cheeks, a speciality of the region. The pork cheeks are cured in salt and then air-dried for a few months, giving them a stronger flavour and a more delicate texture than other types of bacon. It is also traditionally used in Carbonara. In Amatriciana, it is combined with a little polpa di pomodoro and spiced with some chilli peppers. Traditionally, it is served with bucatini (a thick spaghetti-like pasta which, like macaroni, has a hollow centre) and a sprinkling of pecorino cheese.

I had my best Amatriciana (a committed fan, I tried it in several places) in a trattoria nestled in a back street behind the Coliseum, where I stopped for lunch after a walk down from the Aventine Hill. Accompanied by a glass of earthy red wine, it made the perfect lunch and fortified me for the next few hours of walking through the city.

Here is a British twist on the recipe: ‘Penne alla Matriciana’ (different spelling) from The River Café Cookbook by Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers. Do use Bucatini if you can get it, but penne or spagetti is a good alternative. Guanciale may not be easy to come by, although you may be able to get something akin to guanciale from your butcher. Alternatively as in the River Cafe recipe, you can use pancetta.
Penne alla Matriciana
Serves 6
250g pancetta cut into matchsticks
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 dried chillies crumbled
2 red onions peeled and finely chopped
150ml red wine
1 x 800g tin peeled plum tomatoes drained if very liquid
2 tablespoons rosemary
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
250g penne or spaghetti
100g Pecorino or parmesan freshly grated
A handful of fresh oregano
Place the pancetta, oil and chillies in a large saucepan and heat and fry until the pancetta becomes crisp. Then add the onions and rosemary and continue to fry until the onions have become translucent and soft.
Add the red wine. It will reduce almost immediately; then add the tomatoes and season with the oregano and pepper.
Bring to the boil and then lower the heat and simmer for at least 45 minutes until thick and almost dry. It’s key to give the sauce enough time to reduce so that it becomes thick and intense. Check for seasoning.
Cook the penne in a generous amount of boiling salted water then drain thoroughly.
Add to the sauce and serve with parmesan or, if you can, pecorino.
Despite my love of savoury food, I must leave a little space for those with a taste for sweeter things. On this visit to Rome, I was taken to a couple of excellent gelaterias (apparently you can find some of the best ice cream in the world in Rome) - one, Giolitti, is the oldest of Rome’s gelaterias and the other the lesser known - but, in my opinion, eminently superior - Gelateria del Teatro, off the aptly named Via dei Coronari. Not only was this gelateria as picturesque as they come, tucked into a charming side street decorated with potted geraniums and wrought iron tables and chairs, but it also had the most unusual and mouth-watering selection of ice cream I’ve ever seen. No Bacio-flavoured ice creams here; instead you’ll find flavours such as Sage & Wild Raspberry, Lavender & White Peach, White Chocolate & Basil and Amalfi Lemon. I plumped for an unusual combination of Ricotta, Fig & Almond and Cannolo Siciliano (a twist on the classic Sicilian delicacy of fried pastry dough cylinders - not unlike brandy snaps - filled with sweetened creamed ricotta and flavoured, in this case, with lemon). Both were exquisite; not a word I use lightly. It may not be the most affordable gelato you’ll ever buy, but it’s worth it - I can’t recommend it enough. If Audrey Hepburn’s character had tasted one of these in Roman Holiday, she probably would have shacked up with Gregory Peck and stayed put.
